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You don’t need to travel that far from Rome to reach some of the most turquoise waters in all of the Mediterranean Sea. Many Romans and tourists alike flock each summer to nearby Sardinia or to jam-packed Salento Puglia (southern Italy) to get to those crystal water beaches. But not only are those places farther and overflowing with crowds, I would argue that they are less beautiful and unique as some of the “hidden gems” lying right outside of Rome.
Just off the coast of Rome lie the Pontine Islands, a volcanic archipelago of 6 isles; Ponza, Ventotene, Palmarola, Santo Stefano, Zannone, and Gavi. Only two are still inhabited today (Ponza & Ventotene), even though the others are still accessible via tour or private boat. Many of the islands are part of a natural reserve and the waters surrounding the archipelago are some of the most astounding in all of Europe.
Ponza is the largest of the islands at approximately 8 kilometers squared and offers everything that an island-hopper could hope for. Fantastic views, numerous grottos and caves to explore, jaw-dropping hikes, too many beaches and coves to count, and impeccable fine-dining. What more could you want?! Oh and getting from Rome to Ponza only takes a mere hour! *(Above you can view a detailed map of Ponza with all the places I will discuss labeled with a red pin)*
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Rome to Ponza- How to Get to Ponza from Rome
Getting from Rome to Ponza is simple. Depending on where your ferry departs from you will drive or get a train to a different port city. Ferries depart from Anzio, Terracina, San Felice Circeo, Formia, and Naples. All of these cities are approximately 40 min-2 hrs away from Rome, depending on whether you drive or take the train. Even though Ponza is very close to Rome, I don’t recommend doing it as a day trip… you wouldn’t have time to savor all the beautiful island has in store!
I DO NOT RECOMMEND taking your car from Rome to Ponza. Parking will be difficult and most of the little alleys down to the beaches are not even accessible via car.
FERRY BOOKING (A Word of Caution): when choosing whether to book a hydrofoil or a ferry (hydrofoils are much quicker than ferries), keep in mind that all hydrofoils will not depart with bad weather. This happened to us on our return. Our trip was cancelled due to a storm and as a consequence we had to catch the only available ferry later that day that unfortunately was headed to a different port than the one which we departed from (and where we had parked our car!). So, we subsequently had to get a train and a bus to get back to our car. If you want a no hassle trip guaranteed, book the slower ferries!
When to Go to Ponza
Ponza Island is best when the weather is warm and you can actually enjoy the beach and water. As such I wouldn’t recommend going in any of the ‘cold’ months. Summer months however can get a little too crowded to enjoy. The best months to visit the island are shoulder months. I would argue September to be the best month as tourism has died down, but the water is warm and the weather still decent.
Getting around Ponza
I recommend seeing Ponza by land and by sea. By land, although the island is quite small, to really get to explore every little cove you are going to need some sort of vehicle. You can either rent a motorbike or an ATV (there are loads of rentals at the port and the daily fee is quite affordable running at about 20/30 euro per day.) Make sure you check the conditions of the tires before leaving the rental shop!!
By sea, besides the obvious answer of getting around via boat, you can either book a group tour or rent a private one. Both are good options- it depends if you feel comfortable wandering out on your own. We personally like exploring things on our own and making our own time-table and so we opted for renting our own for the whole day. You don’t need a nautical license, it’s quite straight-forward.
Weekend in Ponza – Itinerary & What to See
Before getting into the actual itinerary, weather and wind conditions will be crucial to planning your days on the islands. We went on days that had good weather but a fair amount of wind. As such, we were only able to explore one side of the island via sea (where the water was calm and not rough). We were also not able to plan an excursion out to Palmarola because the sea was too rough. I suggest seeing the forecast for the weekend to decide what to do and what order to do it in. That way if there is wind in the forecast you can plan to stay on the island that day and plan your boat activities for the other day(s).
Day 1 (Ponza by Land)
Rent a Motorbike/ATV and Explore the Island
We set out early in the morning and decided to go all the way to the extreme part of the island (Le Forna) to start. That way we could proceed to make our way down the island as the day went by. (Check out the red pins in the map above to locate any of the places listed below).
First Stop: Punta d’Incenso
Hike up to the highest point in all of Ponza and get an astounding view of the surrounding archipelago. This spot is all the way on the northern tip of the island and the hike is super easy. There are signs indicating the trail and the entire hike round-trip takes about an hour. Cala Gaetano is nearby, but unfortunately, we didn’t visit due to harsh winds on that side of the island.
Second Stop: Cala Cavone
(If you like seclusion)
Get back on your ATV/motorbike and start to make your way back south. Honestly there are hundreds of little alleys to explore but we found these stops to be the most beautiful. We had originally planned to go to Cala Fonte but unfortunately due to the landslide in 2017, it was closed due to safety reasons. (You can however visit the cala via boat- just be careful if you swim to land!!!)
NOTE: The island is highly subject to landslides and many areas are closed-off to the public. The beautiful Chiaia Luna has also been closed to the public after the death of a tourist who wandered to unsafe areas. I don’t recommend jumping the fence and wandering into these areas- the erosion is constantly at play- know that it’s at your own risk!
We ended up going to Cala Cavone which was so nice- we were the only two people in the entire cove! It is quite small, but if you like being on your own this is the place for you. Lay out your towel on the rocks and jump in for a little dip in some of the most insane turquoise water. (To get to this cove you have to descend down a staircase of about 100 stairs).
CAUTION: Ponza does have sea urchins so beware when climbing in and out of the water on the rocks. I highly recommend bringing water shoes; they will not only protect you from sea urchins but will make walking on the rocks in and out of the water comfortable and hassle-free.
Third Stop: Cala dell’Acqua
(Great for divers and swimming)
This was my favorite stop of the day! In my opinion this is the cove that encompasses the most beauty, history, and nature all in one. This cove is much larger than Cala Cavone and is at the base of Punta Papa, an overlooking hill where you can find an old fort from the XVIth century, Forte Papa or Fortino. The hike up to the fort is not outstanding; the trail is not well signaled and there is mining rubble and debris pretty much everywhere (there was an active mine here until the 70s). BUT, the view at the top is great and makes for a perfect sunset spot.
DIVERS!!! – If you are looking for interesting diving spots, right outside of Cala dell’Acqua you can find an American sunken ship from 1944. The ship was transporting German prisoners when it crashed into the rocks of Ponte Papa during a storm. There are many diving tours that take you to this spot.
The water is amazing here and the rocks are a bit smoother and flatter making sun-bathing a little bit more comfortable. To get here look for signs of Fortino on the main road.
**This is the only cove that you can reach directly with a vehicle (without having to park and then walk down). The road however (the last stretch) is unpaved and full of pot-holes. Make sure you feel confident before making your way all the way down with a motorbike.
Fourth Stop: Piscine Naturali
(Amazing landscape, beach rentals, most crowded stop)
This stop will make you feel like you landed on the moon. Reminiscent of Sarakiniko on Milos Island in Greece, this cove, (completely volcanic in nature), has been sculpted by wind and water. Today the rocks have eroded to form two natural pools.
The area has two restaurants (right on the rock!) and you can book a lounge-chair for the day. If you don’t want to pack a lunch and don’t want to sacrifice comforts, this is the perfect spot for you.
IF YOU PREFER SAND: – Cala Feola is a great alternative if you prefer sand to rocks- it’s right next to the Piscine Naturali. Or you can head to Frontone Beach which is on the eastern side of the island.
Last Stop: Chiaia Luna for Sunset Happy Hour
As mentioned before, this beach is closed off to the public but there a couple of great spots for happy hour overlooking the cove. We went to both Le Terrazze di Chiaia Luna and Baretto 99. Le Terrazze is a little bit more chic but I think you get better drinks and better snacks at Baretto 99. You can check both of them out since they are right next to each other.
Enjoy your aperitifs as you marvel at one of the most exquisite coves I have seen to date- the enormous white cliff towering over the blue waters at sunset really make it a postcard moment.
After drinks head to dinner to top off your day with some mouth-watering cuisine. Skip to the Where to Eat section for my recommendations.
Day 2 (Ponza by Sea)
Rent a Boat or Do a Boat Tour!
So we opted for renting our own boat, which we rented at Cala dell’Acqua. It was super easy to drive… you just need to keep a watchful eye out for any shallow rocks. Make sure you pack your lunch, water, towel, watershoes, sunscreen, snorkeling equipment, and if you want a floatie!!
Our boat had a boat-shade which was amazing because we didn’t have to be in the sun ALL day. There are also ice-cream boats that occasionally pass by- isn’t that insane?! You get the ice-cream man but in a boat, not a truck lol!
Our Boat Itinerary
Like we did via land, we decided to head first south to then make our way back up on our return. We planned 2 anchor spots in five hours and visited areas only accessible via boat.
First Anchor: Capo Bianco
We headed down to Chiaia Luna to get a sea-perspective of what we had seen the day before from the viewpoint. It’s insane to see how much a place can look different just from changing your perspective. We decided to not stop here since it didn’t seem interesting to explore and headed to neighboring Capo Bianco to explore all the different tiny grottos.
Capo Bianco is so magnificently white, it really takes your breath away. The blue waters contrasting with the white make you feel like you’re in nothing short of paradise. The cove is surrounded by three grottos which as soon as we saw obviously decided to anchor down and explore.
**This area does have some shallow rocks so just be cautious while heading in to anchor.
Tip for First time Captains: – Make sure you put down the ladder when going for a swim! You won’t be able to make your way back on the boat without it. On a similar note, make sure you remove the ladder when you are back at driving! (We forgot for a good 5 minutes and were so lucky it didn’t detach and fall to the bottom of the sea).
Jump in and take your time exploring. This is a great place to take pictures… a go pro dome port lens will get you fantastic half-underwater photos here like the one above!
Second Anchor: Faraglioni di Lucia Rosa
On the way back north, we headed to the Faraglioni di Lucia Rosa, a group of sea stacks in the middle of a bay surrounded by numerous grottos and miniature beaches. By setting anchor here you can explore numerous things, it just depends on your mood and on your time-table! I decided to take my floatie out and spend some time relaxing in the sun.
By the time we were done exploring here it was time to get back to Cala dell’Acqua and return our boat. I know 2 stops doesn’t sound like much, but we actually got to see so much and at our own pace. Make sure you time accordingly, certain distances can take much more than you think!
Island: Eastern Side
We really wanted to visit the Grotte di Pilato but couldn’t given the wind conditions. Here are the main spots to visit via boat if you can visit the Eastern Side of the island. This could be your Day 3 if you potentially wanted to lengthen your weekend on Ponza Island. Beware that on this side of the island, you will have less hours of direct sunlight. Generally, the beaches here are completely in the shade by 4pm.
Bagno Vecchio
Unfortunately, as of 2019 a lot of this area has been subject to landslides and falling boulders. An area has been sealed off via buoys, but I am not sure as to what the status is for visiting the actual beach.
Cala del Core
Perhaps the most instagrammed spot in all of Ponza, this cove gets its name for the heart-shaped form on the cliff rock formed by volcanic magma.
Cala Felce
The cove gets its name because of the many ferns (felci) growing around it. The area is also heavily present with Sulphur rocks which are collected for producing cosmetic products.
Grotte di Pilato
These are a series of five grottos (tuff rock) all connected via underwater passages. These five “pools” were used to breed moray eels during Roman times.
EXTRA TOUR
We really wanted to extend our weekend in Ponza to go on a boat tour to Palmarola, but unfortunately no boats were departing because of rough seas. Although we didn’t go, I have only heard great things from friends. If you have extra time, I think it would be a great extra tour to fit in. They also offer complete island tours to neighboring Zannone and farther away Ventotene. Check them out when you get to the island!
Where to Eat in Ponza
(*Click on the names of the following restaurants to be redirected to their tripadvisor profiles*)
Ristorante Eea $$$ (Fine-Dining)
If you want to finish your day off with a bang, this restaurant has some of the finest cuisine. Everything is local and freshly caught or made. A real treat for your stomach, and with incredible views on the port.
Il Porticciolo $$ (Local’s choice)
This restaurant although less grandiose than Eea was our first pick of the island. Such a homey and intimate vibe, the food was excellent and the atmosphere humble. We loved it!
Hotels – Where to Stay in Ponza
There are a handful of B&Bs on the island. We chose to stay at Casa Acqua Marina, just a 5-minute walk from the port. The apartment had a kitchen and an outdoor terraced seating area, which was perfect for home-cooked meals. We really enjoyed our stay there and the host was so nice to help us when our return hydrofoil was cancelled. You can check out all the available properties below, but I highly recommend booking a place close to the port. All other areas will be far away from restaurants, grocery stores or rental shops for ATVs/motorbikes.
What to Bring
You are going to mostly be in the water or on the beach during your stay in Ponza. This means you will be in your bathing suit 70% of the time. Make sure you bring watershoes! This will make your swimming and hiking hassle-free, no pain or sea urchins to worry about. Also, consider buying a reef-safe sunscreen and protect yourself while you protect the environment. Lastly, if you’re planning on getting in a lot of photography, I definitely recommend you get an underwater/rugged camera or go-pro to capture all those turquoise underwater moments.
Budget Breakdown (3 days/ 2 nights)
Accommodation (2 nights): 120 euro
Boat & Motorbike rental + Gas: 150 euro
Food & Drinks: 250 euro
Ferry (round-trip): 100 euro
Total: 620 euro >> 310 euro per person
For more island itineraries, here are some great ones: Procida, the most colorful island in the Bay of Naples, Burano and Murano, where art never stops in Venice, and Milos– the most beautiful Greek Island hands down.
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This blog post is intended for general informational and educational purposes only. Please read my full disclosure for further information.
Catherine @ To & Fro Fam says
Ponza looks like a tropical island. I would have never guessed it’s off the coast of Italy! I agree that shoulder season for visiting heavily trafficked areas is the way to go.
Linda Faison says
Yes exactly! Off the beaten path and wonderful crystal waters- it’s the ideal island getaway 🙂